Waterford & Wexford
Ireland has some fantastic cities: Dublin, Cork, Galway, Belfast and Limerick all have plenty of charm in their own ways. However, the oldest city in the country is in fact Waterford.
Just a two-hour drive south from Dublin, Waterford offers a staggering variety of attractions, in the setting of one of the nation’s most beautiful regions, the south east of the country, on the banks of the River Suir.
The city was founded by the Vikings in the ninth century, before the Anglo-Norman invaders arrived in 1170, followed by King Henry II of England’s army in 1171, which invaded the city to exert control in Ireland, in order to prevent the whole country becoming a rival Norman territory.
As I’m sure you can imagine, all that history makes the city a joy for culture vultures – more of that anon.
Faithlegg House Hotel
Accommodation-wise, if you want to live it up in style, the finest option in the area is Faithlegg House Hotel and Golf Resort.
Located 11km west of Waterford city, also along the banks of the Rivers Suir, the opulent hotel is the definition of grandeur. A long, sweeping driveway, flanked by golf greens, an excellent French restaurant, superb interior design and architecture, and bedrooms and suites that would befit royalty, make the venue something of a jaw-dropper.
You’ll fall in love with the place immediately. Add to that the extremely helpful and friendly staff and it becomes an ideal place to call home for your time in the region.
Road trip to County Wexford
With a car, the region is your oyster from Faithlegg, and the options and attractions are many. I opted to take a circular route into Wexford, before returning to Waterford that same evening.
The first stop on my route was New Ross, just across the Wexford county border. There you can visit the Dunbrody Famine Ship and Irish Emigrant Experience. The recreated ship and accompanying tour give an insight into the journey that the people of Ireland made across the Atlantic Ocean to Canada and the US to escape the Irish potato famine of 1845-1847.
It’s a poignant experience and gives a superb insight into the poverty of 19th century Ireland and the bravery of its people as they ventured out across the ocean to find a new and better life in the Americas.
Perhaps the area’s most famous son is John F Kennedy, who traces his ancestry to nearby Dunganstown, where the family homestead is still inhabited by his descendants.
A short drive south back along the Suir will bring you to the homestead, which now has a museum to JFK and the Kennedys, retracing the history of this famous Irish-American family.
From there one can continue to follow the flow of the Suir south towards the Celtic Sea, passing the beautiful ruins of the fortified church built by the Knights Hospitaller at Templetown. One can also stop in for a snack at the adjacent Templars Inn for some excellent seafood.
Continuing due south you reach Hook Head, one of Ireland’s most beautiful headlands. Jutting out into the sea, with a lighthouse perched at the end, the vista is stunning and if ever one needed it, is a fantastic reminder of just how stunning Ireland’s rugged natural beauty is.
Having taken in the sea air and views, a short drive back up the coast brings you to Dunbrody House, which is owned and run by internationally renowned chef Kevin Dundon and his wife.
If you fancy picking up some tips from Dundon, the premises also has a cookery school attached. And if you want to just drop in to chill out, there is very cool little pub adjoining the premises.
Right beside Dunbrody, at Ballyhack, there is a car ferry which transports you back across to the Waterford side of the Suir, from there it’s just a short drive back to Faithlegg.
Fine dining in Waterford
For at least one night of your stay, just kicking back in Faithlegg is a must. The hotel restaurant is excellent and serves up French fare at a very reasonable price. With options such as salmon or chicken liver parfait; then roast lamb or beef; followed by a local-produce cheese board; and then stewed rhubarb, you are sure to be content.
Wash that down with some Bordeaux or Beaujolais red and you’ll be in good spirits to move across to the adjoining bar, where you can mingle with the other guests.
If you want to mix things up and get down to the city centre for dinner, two restaurants get this writer’s nod of approval.
La Boheme is run by Eric Thézé, from the Basque country region of France. He converted a vaults and cellar into a beautiful, elegant white-walled eatery back in 2006, and it’s been going strong every since.
The big, jovial Falstaffian Frenchman serves a market menu each evening, which combines the very best of the local produce. And like Faithlegg, the service at La Boheme is second to none.
Another option is Bodéga!, right in the heart of town. Serving a Mediterranean menu, this place has a buzzing atmosphere and is a great place to start a night on the town.
But I’d advise not getting too merry if you plan on hitting up some of the city’s central attractions the next day, because there are plenty and it’d be shame to miss out.
The Viking Triangle
Without doubt the city’s best attraction is the Viking Triangle, comprising the Medieval Museum, the Bishop’s Palace and Reginald’s Tower.
The Medievel Museum charts the history of the city through its colonization by both the Anglo-Normans and England’s monarchy, and details how the city’s future changed as a result.
In addition to a superb acted guided tour, the artifacts on display are outstanding, most especially the Dalmatic vestments, the only pre-Reformation high mass vestments to survive in Britain or Ireland. These beautiful woven priests’ garments are stunning.
The museum also incorporates the original structure of the Chorister’s Hall into the tour, as well as many other artifacts dating from the period.
The third part of the triangle is Reginald’s Tower, located right beside the Suir on The Quay.Just next door, the Bishop’s Palace gives an insight into the city’s history from the period 1700-1970. The house itself is beautifully restored and is a living example of how the upper classes would have lived in the 1700s in Ireland.
The tower is one of the city’s defensive structures, built in the 13th century as part of the city walls to protect against invasion, and has since then been the site of several important moments in the city’s history.
A fourth attraction to take in while in the city centre is the House of Waterford Crystal, where there are guided tours showing how the world’s most famous glass is made.
Some other recommend stops
Before heading on to your next destination in Ireland, a bit of sustenance will be needed, and two great spots to get a bite to eat and sink a pint are Jack Meades and The Gingerman
Jack Meades dates from 1705 and is located on the road back to Faithlegg. They have a newer pub built only a few years ago, but a stop in to talk to the locals in the original building is a must-do. Right beside the pub there’s also the ruins of an old limekilns, which is worth a gander.
In the centre of town the place to go is The Gingerman. Like Jack Meades, The Gingerman is a beautiful wood-paneled bar, where you could spend hours relaxing.
They also do great food, including big bowls of seafood chowder and toasted sandwiches; in Ireland, with tongue-in-cheek, we call that particular dish ‘Irish tapas’.
Waterford is a city that ticks a lot of boxes: history, check; great bars and restaurants, check; friendly denizens, check.
Add in its proximity to Dublin, and the many attractions nearby Wexford has, and the oldest city in Ireland still has plenty to offer the modern visitor.
Useful links:
Dunbrody Famine Ship
The Kennedy Homestead
La Boheme restaurant
Bodéga! Restaurant
The Viking Triangle
House of Waterford Crystal
Jack Meades bar and restaurant
Destination Dublin
Dublin needs very little introduction as a city. The capital of the Republic of Ireland is world famous for its history, literature, pubs, restaurants, music and more. In short, it’s a must-see destination not just on itineraries to Ireland and the UK, but also on visits to Europe.
The choice of everything in the capital is vast, but a superb place to base oneself during a stay is Clontarf Castle, on the city’s northside, located in close proximity to the coast of Dublin Bay.
The castle was originally built in 1172 by Hugh de Lacy as part of an inner circle of defensive structures to defend the city against attack.
The castle is also built near the site where the Battle of Clontarf took place in 1014 between the forces of the High King of Ireland Brian Boru, and Máel Mórda, the King of Leinster, who was backed by Vikings from Dublin, the Orkney Islands and the Isle of Man. Both sides were fighting for control of Leinster, and in turn control of Ireland.
The battle came to a close when Mórda was killed and his army was defeated. However, Boru was also killed, meaning that following the battle, the country found itself without a leader, and fell into a pattern of smaller tribes fighting for control of various parts of the country over the subsequent years.
It’s a famous battle in Irish history, and one worth finding out more about. Indeed, the hotel arranges tours of the local area, which focus on the battle in particular.
The Viking and medieval history of Dublin is also examined in close detail at the city centre museum Dublinia, which is worth a visit to gain an understanding of the time the Scandinavian warriors exerted control in Ireland.
Back in the present day, a fourth-floor room at Clontarf Castle gives a splendid view out across the city. Modern day Dublin’s docklands, red-brick homes and the city centre gleam out in the distance, and begin to make one think of the many lives that have been lived, and that are being lived at that very moment, across the metropolis.
A fine way to get a grasp of that history of Dublin’s people is by visiting the Glasnevin Cemetery Museum, also located on the northside of the city.
The museum was named European Museum of the Year in 2012 and represents a way to get a handle on some of the famous Dubliners who are buried here.
As well as charting the early days of gravediggers and graverobbers, the museum also details the members of the Irish rebellion that are buried here, which includes Michael Collins and Eamon de Valera.
There is also a very large section dedicated to the Catholic emancipator Daniel O’Connell. In addition to introducing Catholic emancipation, O’Connell was lauded as an abolitionist and radical, making him one of the most respected and renowned figures in Irish history.
Indeed after his election to parliament, he decreed that Dublin needed a non-denominational cemetery, and Glasnevin Cemetery was spawned as a result. O’Connell takes pride of place in Glasnevin, buried in a crypt beneath the O’Connell monument, which is a round tower just inside the main gates of the cemetery.
Tours of the cemetery’s most famous graves are run daily at 1130 and 1430, and are a good additional attraction to do as well as taking in the museum.
The National Botanic Gardens can also be accessed through a side gate of the cemetery. The greenhouses there are home to a staggering variety of tropical flora, while there is also a wide variety of native nature, kept in pristine condition, to be seen.
The city centre of Dublin is the city’s greatest gem; however, and the list of attractions to be seen there are many. A day or two walking around sampling museums, bars and restaurants is perhaps my favourite thing to do in the city.
The National Gallery holds a superb collection of art that includes works by Caravaggio, Turner, Picasso, Vermeer and Yeats.
In addition to the art on offer, the building itself is a collection of wings from different eras that also evoke different architectural periods.
My personal favourite is the Millennium Wing, designed by Benson and Forsythe. Its clean lines and angled walls make an apt home for some of the world’s greatest pieces of art.
You could also undertake a walking tour of the sights of the city to get a handle on the layout and see some of the main attractions.
Starting on the northside, Henry Street is one of the city’s premier shopping districts and a good place to get the credit card out if that is your fancy.
While at the end of Henry Street is The Church Café Bar. The beautifully restored building is one of Dublin’s oldest galleried churches and a great place to absorb some 18th century architecture while grabbing a bite to eat or a pint of Guinness.
Indeed, sipping on a pint of Guinness is a favourite pastime in Dublin and there are countless places in which to do so.
Another of the best spots to take in is The Horseshoe Bar just off St Stephen’s Green, a side bar to the salubrious Shelbourne Hotel. U2 frontman Bono often takes a drink here, which is as good a recommendation as any.
Just around the corner from St Stephen’s Green is another Georgian square – Merrion Square. Both are beautiful, green lungs in the heart of the city, and portals back to the Georgian era of the town.
Dublin’s Oscar Wilde statue can also be seen in a corner of Merrion square, opposite the home he lived in from 1855-1878.
A short walk from Merrion Square is Grafton Street, along with Henry Street, the main shopping hub of the city, with designer brands to beat the band.
A must-see Grafton Street attraction is Bewley’s Café, one of the city’s most famous, and oldest, eateries. Grab a coffee on the balcony level and watch the world and his wife go by outside.
Another great place to do a spot of shopping, or eat and drink, is the George’s Street Arcade. Built in 1881, it’s Europe’s oldest shopping centre and today houses an eclectic mix of eateries, clothes, book, record and bric-a-brac stores.
Among the best on offer inside is Worscht – a gourmet sausage café. Ireland is famous for the humble sausage and the quality at this establishment is excellent.
A few doors up from Worscht is a side entrance into the adjacent Market Bar, a converted market which now houses an upmarket tapas and wine bar.
If you want things a little more low key, just opposite the entrance to the Market Bar is Little Mac’s, Ireland’s oldest fast food stall.
For coffee, Simon’s Place is the stop shop for a brew. Listed in the McKennas’ Guide for 2014, this place is an institution that has been serving up great coffee and cake for years.
Cross over from there into Temple Bar and you’ll find the Irish Film Institute, where you can catch the latest European arthouse flicks.
The restaurant and bar are both good here, and you might even spot a celeb while there. Aidan Gillen (The Wire, Games of Thrones) and Jim Sheridan (My Left Foot, In the Name of the Father) were both there last time I visited.
The IFI building itself is also a fine example of old and new Irish architecture combining. The original structure was a Quaker meeting house dating from 1692, but is now a wonderful mélange of old brick and more modern glass and steel.
If you watch a film in the IFI, the must-eat venue is around the corner in Meeting House Square at Il Baccaro.
This southern Italian-style restaurant is second generation and serves up excellent, traditional Italian fare.
Housed in an old warehouse, it’s a very unique dining experience. Incidentally, if you look up and across the square when outside you can see the Gaiety School of Acting, where Colin Farrell, among others, learnt their trade.
One of the better venues to catch some live acting in the city is the Project Arts Centre, which is also in Temple Bar. They have a constantly revolving selection of modern theatre.
Or, if art is more your thing than acting, the National Photographic Archive and Temple Bar Gallery both house rotating exhibitions, which have free entry. If you plan ahead, there are also opening nights at which you can meet the artists.
As mentioned earlier, Il Baccaro is a fine dining spot. A few other options in Temple Bar are The Chameleon: around since 1994, they serve up Indonesian food, and are regarded as one of the best outlets for vegetarian fare in the city.
If you want to keep it more Irish, Boxty House serves a traditional Irish menu, including stew and seafood chowder.
As well as those lesser-known attractions, the world famous Guinness Storehouse, and the Jameson Distillery, are both worth popping your head into it. They have great tours and also explain in detail how stout and whisky, respectively, are made.
The 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour, run by Lorcan Collins, is also a good option. The tour gives an outline to the Easter Rising, during which Ireland was first declared a republic, and visits the sights where the rebellion took place around the city.
And of course, a trip to Dublin is incomplete with visiting the world-famous academic institution Trinity College. Walk across its cobbled streets and get a feel for old-world academia.
While you’re there you can also view the 9th century Book of Kells. An ornate gospel manuscript created by Irish monks and housed in an 18th century library.
With all that history and culture seeped into one’s mind, retreating back to the beautiful mix of old and new design that is Clontarf Castle is a good way to relax and reflect upon what you’ve seen.
The exterior of the castle is intact, and much of the inside has an old-world feel, but a facelift with a modern tinge gives the building a wonderful mélange of modern and ancient, where glass and stone collide to create a homely, yet elegant hotel, which is situated merely ten minutes from the city centre and the heart of the action.
Fahrenheit Grill, the hotel’s restaurant, serves traditional European fare, with the rib-eye steak and confit duck particular highlights. Or you can dine at the hotel’s more low-key Knights Bar, perhaps grabbing a buffet lunch there in the afternoon.
If you fancy a few pints of the black stuff nearby then two choices spring to mind. Harry Byrnes on the Howth Road is one of Ireland’s best bars and serves a mean pint of Guinness.
While on Clontarf Road, The Yacht looks out over Dublin Bay, and former Ireland rugby legend Brian O’Driscoll is a customer you might bump into while there.
Dublin’s a great city, and it really is only getting better with age. Grab a piece of it for yourself.
Useful Links to attractions mentioned in Tadhg’s Travel:
Dublinia Museum
Glasnevin Cemetry Museum
The National Gallery of Ireland
George’s Street Arcade
Irish Film Institute
Temple Bar Gallery and Studios
Guinness Storehouse
Jameson Distillery
